Sumba

Trip to Sumba - it's like a leap into the past. Here earnest Christianity mixes with pagan rites, and instead of civilization - the only one hint at her. But the deserted white beaches and happy smiles, as they want. Surprisingly, in fact: to be on Sumbe simple. All you need is to jump on a plane to Bali (three almost daily flights of the company operates Batavia, Trans Nusa, and Merpati Ailines) and less than an hour - hi, Sumba! If you think that the Bali airport is extremely primitive, imagine your surprise. When you land in Vangapu, the capital of the island, situated in the northern part of it: this structure is more like Mighty shed adjacent to the aircraft hangar. However, do not worry about this unpretentious buildings - but the staff is very friendly, and your luggage is unlikely to be lost - you can trace the path of the suitcase from beginning to end, examining in detail how the stevedores unload it from the belly of the plane and dragged under the canopy. Perhaps you're worried about the question of why I generally dragged himself to the island. Long history: the first time I washed these shores almost 15 years ago and then I realized that those species that have opened my eyes - one of the most spectacular in the whole of Indonesia. In particular - Terimbang bay surrounded by mountains, which gradually merge into the jungle, eventually merging with the white sands of the coast, which - in turn - cut in turquoise waves. Perfect wave, I must say. Like any surfer, my dependence on the perfect wave - it's a real addiction, incurable, it seems the disease. So I came back - not once. Surfing Sumbe - it is certainly something that every fan should try the board, reaching up to Indonesia! In Terimbange, in fact, nothing but a little surf - and there are no camps. Four hours by car from the airport - and you're lucky guest a tiny most primitive huts on stilts with a mattress under a mosquito net inside. Every time when you have to at least sit on the edge of the mattress, the whole cabin starts to creak, groan and shake to go, so all night you hear the neighbors are tossing and turning in the other houses. The first night - the biggest challenge for those accustomed to malomalski comfort. But the next day - after a rabid surf the inevitable sunburn, a couple of bottles of beer and local cooking - you do not even notice that fell into a deep sleep. And rest assured - it will happen very soon. Regardless of whether you like it or not - just all the electricity on the island of diesel generators, and the owner of Camp turns off the power as early as nine in the evening. The main problem with the wheelchair on Terimbange that need a good reduced, since the spot is located in an enclosed bay. So, after waiting a few days the right wind, I finally zasobiralsya - it's time to get a move on, jump in a battered car camp owner and go look for a surge in other lands. Seven hours behind the wheel - and my back urgently needed rest. Thank God, at this point we just got to the pristine beach of great beauty, and had just before sunset. I immediately noticed the perfect wave, and rolling over the reef - and said it a couple of bottles of warm Bintang. By the way, an excellent remedy for back pain! We in the west of Sumba - and I just wanted a pun about the "wild, wild West! The next morning I wake up with difficulty - and all because I perepalo little real comfort in this hotel, which keeps a Frenchman. Sometimes in the middle of this bosyatskogo trip so pleasant to be in normal conditions. Shook off the drowsiness, I jump up and hurry to the reception desk - please give me a bike to rent, to get to the beach. Have to wait for two hours - during which time the wind changes, and all the best waves pass by me. Deciding not to faint, I'm going to explore the surrounding area. For a couple of hours I managed to visit the ancient cemetery, a swim on a deserted beach, and eventually find myself in the house of the local village, looked at six rotting bull heads that adorn his bedroom - a symbol of prosperity, and the elder is extremely proud of his stinking decor. All around completely unsuitable for tourists - and this kind of luxury. However, I do not forget to thank Providence for all the convenience that I have the good fortune to enjoy at home in Bali. The next day I flew to the north of Sumba. Town Vaykabubak more primitive than Vangapu, and the local Airport and at all looks like a shoebox. But here in full swing repairs - so those lucky people that go to Baykabubak after me, will catch quite a decent poludeystvuyuschy air terminal. In general, going on Sumba, do not expect anything. Especially comfort. And appreciate this pristine wilderness, the dream of an anthropologist. Sumba - is ancient as it is, but without the museum's coffins, and in the fullness of life. A rare thing.