Surfer

October for me was the month of surprises. And unexpected coolest Wolfmother concert in Deus, and surprise visits old friends in large numbers, travel to other islands and - unexpected calm in all this. In early October in Bali was the World Cup on Surfing Oakley Pro Junior. Young talents get up in the water so that even the tourists sunbathing on the beach, rolled up his neck. I am particularly waiting for this event: comment on the competition promised to visit a friend of mine, a very outstanding surfer and manager of the notorious Jordy Smith. We had previously planned to definitely go together. And once we all - have managed to do it. That day came in Sanur very good waves - seeing them, the guys whistling with happiness, and I felt like - it does not on its own. The wave of powerful, fast, sometimes wrapped in a pipe, and yes even right, that is, I have to ride in the backside, that while I did it not so confident. We quickly found a boatman who took us on line - up. And then began the real show - I seem to hit the surf - a video about tough guys. My attempts to take the same wave ended with a beautiful vaypautami. My friend gave me some advice, and finally the day I still - still took her a wave, and I can say that it was the best right-hand wave in my life! And after a beautiful sunset and cheerful dinner, and I think the whole evening sitting stunned again and again passing in his mind that wave. In general, my progress in surfing is gaining momentum - I even brought his formula for success ©. In - first, get a friend - surfer. Better to have it abruptly rolled and you were easy to climb. I, for example, is much easier to wake up before dawn, if I'm going to ride more than one. In - the second, surfing, like any sport, requires constant training. Even simple stretching before bedtime doing their job. A c - Third, try as much as possible to travel to other islands. In Bali, especially in high season, sometimes becomes a bit crowded. I have this month there were two trip to the deserted beaches Sumbawa and Lombok, where silence cut ear, and nothing distracts from the knowledge of the ocean and of itself.