Silence and chirping canaries

"Lisbon has retained the original light and languor of freshness: in spite of asphalt factories, gas lamps, cobbled quays, on the roofs still kissing doves, and the air flowing through the cracks of stone buildings, like the life blood of melancholy, so in the XIX century, described the Lisbon classic of Portuguese literature, Jose Maria de Esa Keyrosh. The city has not lost its charm, and to this day. To experience it fully, you need to get out and walk through the narrow streets of old neighborhoods. Houses are so close that the villagers came out onto the balcony, could shake the hand of a neighbor across the street. Lisbon is unpredictable: you walk along a busy highway, around the din and bustle, but it's worth a roll in - a lane, instantly there is a silence, broken only by chirping of canaries (cells with these birds-permanent attribute of the historic center of Lisbon). But still the voice of Lisbon is not a canary, a fado, penetrating and sincere Portuguese urban romance. When the capital deepening twilight, townspeople and tourists gather in the fado houses, "small and cozy restaurants. Initially, all as always: bustling waiters, the visitors drink and a snack. But here the lights go out, talk silent. By candle light in the hall of the musicians appearing with unusual 12 - string guitars and Fado singer-fadishta. Action begins. Strong voice of the singer in a frame guitar chords fills the hall. It is melancholy and sad, the sharp and passionate, something sweet and touching. Fadishta sings about love, about the hometown of unfulfilled hopes and dreams, everything that is close the heart of every one of us. The Portuguese said: mouth fadishty sings the soul of Portugal. And already familiar to us, Jose Maria de Esa Keyrosh wrote: "Athens created the sculpture, Rome has invented right, Paris has invented a revolution ... And what created the Lisbon? Fado. Magnificent panorama opens from the walls of the medieval fortress of San - Jorge, located on the highest hill in town. Wide, like a sea, river Tagus slowly carries its waters to the ocean. Between the river and the fortress-intricate tangle of streets and alleys of Alfama, the oldest quarter of Lisbon. There are no cars and public transport, and no one not in a hurry. Alfama on possible long wander, enjoying the peace and serenity, and then drink a cup of coffee at a table of - a cozy cafe, watching the old-fashioned facades of the houses with the obligatory flowers on the windows.